We used 3/4 for the back and used several magnetic contacts to keep the back tight to the sides. It was a built-in shelf unit in the master bath. We did sort of the same thing for a customer. You can not tell at all that it is there. Since the floors were all wood, I worked with the flooring guy to have him feather floor down when door swings open so shoe would not catch as it swings. 4" wheel built into outbound edge to support door as it swings open. Slide bolt mortised into underside of chair rail. All the trim is coped including shoe.Ĭlick here for higher quality, full size imageīall bearing 4x4 hinges screwed through into framing. (My doorway was only 30".) Keep that in mind on your own project.Ĭue rack, but same premise as bookcase. I thought about using a pivot hinge for a current bookcase project, but skipped the idea since a 12" deep bookcase on a pivot would eat up more than 12" of the doorway when opened 90 degrees. Gary Katz has illustrated step by step instructions for this that tells you everything you need to know at: I just ordered some Rixson h117-3/4 center pivot hinges. People won't notice it unless they walk over to it and look straight down at where the door and the trim meets - but you'll know. The door in the one I did was about 5'x2' and even though it's all 3/4" ply, the bottom racks inward about 1/2". One thing I learned, though, is that you have to over-engineer the door. Since I don't have the paperwork close at hand, I can't give you the part number that I used, but I think the number for the bottom pivot was 128-3/4 and the top was 320. I've done the same sort of thing as you're about to do and I used a pair of Rixson pivot hinges with great results. Has anybody ever done this? What hardware do you use? I'd like it to open as a door, so I'd like to use some kind of hinges. One of them has to open on a hidden room. I have to produce a library room with four bookcases.
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